Well , this is actually day 2 in Ghana and everything has been pretty amazing. The flight over was pretty good. I ended up switching to the aisle seat with my seatmate as she was trying desparately to sleep but could not get comfortable – she needed her rest more than I as she was traveling for a funeral. When I finally settled down for a nap, the lights in the cabin came back up and an announcement was made - "is there a doctor on board? Will anyone with medical experience please come to the back of the plane." I responded but there were 2 doctors and a nurse already involved, so I ended up hanging out in the rear galley talking with a young man who was enroute to Liberia for a charitable mission working in an orphanage and enjoying the "war stories" of a veteran airline stewardess who had definitely "been there and done that." So much for sleep – the adrenaline surge took care of that.
In the morning we deplaned directly onto the tarmac via huge metal stairs rolled up to the front & back doors. Until I reached the bottom of the steps, my main objective was not to fall down as they were pitched a bit steeply, my load was heavy and the woman in front of me kept stopping unexpectedly. When I reached the ground, I looked about, saw some official vehicles and a few people who had placards with names but none were for me. I went inside, again passing more individuals with names on cards, but remained unconcerned. Sam had said he would work it out and I was not to worry – so I didn't. While I was standing on the line, a slim gentleman wearing traditional style casual dress came up on my left. He was pointing at a piece of paper in his hand while saying, "is this you?" I looked down and saw that it was a black & white printout of my ONS "Vegas" picture and responded "I think so." When he paused, looking a little confused, I restated, "yes, it's me." He bent down to take my bags, "Good, come this way , the chief is waiting." So, following him, we passed everyone still waiting on line as he brought me to the window for Diplomatic visitors. While standing there, I saw a friendly looking gent looking directly at me. As I glanced back, he began to make a funny face while waving his fingers at me. I just smiled back, thinking "OK – keep smiling, he looks harmless enough." Moments later, we met face to face and I realized that my finger waggler was none other than "the chief" aka Sam but officially Togbi Akumey Geli Adjorlolo III. He introduced himself and greeted me warmly – I had failed to recognize him despite having had a picture, but then again, he had the same problem. He and his driver had been waiting on the tarmac looking to collect me with a diplomatic vehicle, but were unable to pick me out of the crowd. Perhaps if I had fallen down after all, he would have found me more quickly. J An announcement was made alerting passengers from Delta flight 166 that not all of the checked luggage had been placed on the plane and that any missing items would arrive on tomorrow's flight. I remained calm. It would all work out. I gave my passport and luggage receipts to one of his men , then Sam led me to the VIP Lounge to await retrieval of my luggage. We talked and began to get acquainted. He was very gracious, again thanking me for the efforts I had made on behalf of Atorkor Village and the health center. I was just happy to be here. I made it. I am in Africa.
While we waited, we spoke of the supplies I had brought and my initial concerns about everything getting here with me. However, I am learning to "let go" - I cannot obsess over every detail that is not under my control. It is what it is. I packed as well and securely as I could and once I left those cases with the TSA baggage checkers, it was out ot my hands. Sam assured me that all would be well and if something was left behind, he would have someone pick it up the next day. Sam's associate Kaff, whom he refers to as "Mr. Fix it" came into the lounge accompanied by a young woman in the uniform of the Ghanaian Army. He informed me that one of the Rubbermaid style storage boxes did not make it but he would make sure it arrived tomorrow and was picked up. I had a brief moment of concern and then let it go. The entourage picked up my hand baggage and we proceeded outside to get into the waiting car, already loaded with the 3 cases of supplies that had accompanied me. (I didn't have to carry a thing – I could get used to this.) We then drove through Accra to the guest house where Sam had stayed the night before so as to be able to meet me at the airport in the early morning. I was given a chance to "freshen up" and was able to take a quick shower – mindful of the warnings I had been given not to ingest any of the water, even in Accra. It felt so good, even though I did not have a fresh set of clothing out – it would have been too much trouble, once I break into one of those Space Bags, it would have been all over with. However, just being able to shower and change undergarments was wonderful. Afterwards, I rejoined my party and then had some refreshments while sitting in the chief's "favorite spot."
Me & Sam @ Mahogany Lodge, Accra, Ghana Me & Kaff, aka "Mr. Fix it"
Upon leaving, we changed vehicles – everything had been moved into an SUV while we were inside – and continued on our way. I saw the huge complex being built by the US Embassy. The homes in the surrounding neighborhood were all gated residences and quite upscale. Then we changed some money (1 USD = 0.98 GC) and went to the SHOPRITE supermarket in Accra Shopping Mall .
The market was clean and well lit with wide aisles and a fair assortment of items. However, I noted that much of the fresh produce was imported. Yet Ghana is an agricultural country. I commented to Sam that one would think that if they could bring in potatoes from South Africa, they should be able to obtain locally produced product. I saw him furrow his brow as he verbalized his agreement.
The road was long and dusty with little change of scenery, yet my excitement never waivered. We crossed a small toll bridge not far from the border of Togo and were besieged by bread sellers when we paused to obtain a few loaves. Sam opened his window to make the purchase and the young boys were literally all over the vehicle, on both sides, trying to make a sale. After about 2 ½ hours travel from Accra, we crossed over the Volta Lagoon which has been made smaller due to the presence of the Volta Dam and continued down the ribbon of road until we saw some scattered dwellings ahead. We had finally reached Atorkor.
We alighted from the vehicle to be met by the crowd of people gathered at the roadside. There were men and women in traditional dress, along with a group of school children who were dancers and drummers. They greeted us with smiles, shouts and loud cries of "WEEZOO!!" which is Ewe for "Welcome." I shook many hands and tried making the appropriate response of "DYOO" and an occasional "Akpe" which means "Thanks." We began to walk in a procession up the road to the Togbi's residence. There was beating of drums, dancing and singing as we went along.
The warmth & hospitality shown to me was unparalleled. It was an experience like no other I have ever known. However, when I called my dad later that night, I told him to start rounding up the neighborhood children so he could greet me in kind upon my return home. J
Annual Prize Giving and Speech Giving Day in Atorkor Village
The day broke hot & sunny with a few grey skies in the distance but nothing to worry about. Before proceeding to the ceremony, I came downstairs to meet the Queen Mother of the village – Mrs. Lois A. Okudzeto, M.A. It was then that I realized I probably should have prepared a few formal words as she was to officially introduce me to the community. They were really emphasizing that I had come "all the way from New York City" to help the village so as to give the villagers a sense of importance with regards to the efforts being made on their behalf. Again,
we had a formal procession (no drums but still some calling out from onlookers) with Tobgi and his wife, followed by the Queen Mother, myself and the rest fo the entourage. Fortunately they had canopied areas for everyone to sit – the sun was fierce. The formalities went on for hours but the Master of Ceremonies had a quick wit and a dramatic flair that kept things interesting. At one point, when he realized that this was going on long enough, he announced that "there seem to have been changes in the program but it would appear that I have the Master Copy so that's alright then…" The children's dance routines were very good, some were better than others. As one group of girls were enjoying their fifteen minutes of fame and were not going to give up one nano-second of it, even as the Master of Ceremonies tried to get them to finish up by talking over their performance. They just kept on until the end. It was during the ceremony that I discovered that I was the "Guest Speaker" – when the MC told Mama tha
t she was to introduce me before I made my speech, she replied, "does she know about that?" Well I do now… After the Queen Mother made her remarks which were insightful and supportive about the school's progress and where it needs to go, she introduced me. I managed to make some brief comments regarding how I was impressed before I arrived when I had heard about the village and the work that ADF is trying to achieve, however, now that I have been so warmly received and seen the efforts of the children and everyone for myself, I was truly impressed. The MC translated my remarks into Ewe and it appeared to be well received. I then continued to state the purpose of my trip was bring as much medical equipment as possible and to see what I can do to make a difference. 
I called the Nurse of the Health Clinic, Ms. Susan Sabadu forward and gave her a donation of $300 for the Health Clinic on behalf of my coworkers who had contributed towards my mission. We then walked over to where the medical supplies were on display at the end of the table with the prizes. I spoke briefly and gratefully returned the microphone. The MC finished translating and turned to me to state that "the people of Atorkor are most grateful for your efforts and will do everything in their power to make your stay here an unforgettable one and you will have the best time of your life." After all of that was said and done, we finally got to the point of the entire exercise which was to give the students their awards. The Queen mother started things off and then I and Mrs. Adjorlolo helped give out the awards.
Afterwards, the donated supplies were put on display in the tent with the childrens' artwork and handicrafts, some of which were quite good. If they continue to do so well, it is possible that the school may soon be able to sell some of their crafts to help raise funds.Much thanks is due to the wonderful people who helped make this possible for me to do – my coworkers @ Jacobi Medical Center on Unit 5D Oncology, especially Cheryl Drayton for her efforts at collecting funds and everyone who was kind enough to contribute; Ms. Livermore for donating the CPR instructional supplies; Mr. Peter Lucey, Ms. Hannah Nelson, Greg Tossi, who made sure I had something to bring over; MAP, International and Johnson & Johnson; Dana Sawyer @ LITTMAN Stethoscopes; John Cromwell @ 3M Health Care; Frankie Flynn for his generosity in purchasing a STERILIZER/Autoclave and for transporting me to JFK; my family – Sarita & Jasmine, I could not have done the airport thing without your help; the nice people @ BAYER who made sure I was able to contact the local rep, Scott Blum who was kind enough to send me glucometer strips to take along.
Wednesday, March 27, 2007
The one shown here is made out of a flour/grain sack. Unfortunately the part that says "Product of Ghana" doesn't show up well in this photo. The slings are all homemade and some are quite fancy, including one that was crocheted.
Through the nurse, who is named Susan, I asked the women for permission to take photographs of them and their children. They assented and much to their amusement, I managed to use one of my few Ewe words "Akpbe" (Thank you) .
People wait to be seen with their babies.
Nurse Susan is busy long after clinic is done.
In addition to the babies, there was a young girl who came in with her Dad complaining of nausea, vomiting and diarrhea x 2 days. In this climate, with the heat, this is a serious event requiring intervention – dehydration is a life threatening event. Fortunately, she did not look too bad although she was visibly tired and miserable. Susan prepared a bowl of ORS & water – Oral Rehydration Salts – something similar to Pedialyte as a replacement for fluids & electrolytes lost. The girl was allowed to rest in the Albert Stanton Ward – a room set up with a couple hospital style cots for the purpose of treating short stay or stabilizing a seriously ill person for transport to the hospital. Her skin turgor was satisfactory and we showed her parent how to check for dehydration. After she consumed the ORS and rested, she still vomited one more time but felt adequately improved to go home with her father.
Later that afternoon, we unpacked and cataloged the supplies. Eric Doe, one of the healthcare workers assigned to the clinic was delighted when he was given his own stethoscope to care for and keep as his own. I also gave him a Metro Plus shirt which he immediately put on and began posing for pictures. He is a sweetie with a flashing smile, good looks and he knows it… gee, who does that remind me of?
Later, the Togbi came by with his IT Tech person. He is serious about this clinic becoming a state of the art facility. I am gaining insight into the problems to be dealt with and where I may be of assistance. After he left to attend yet another meeting, his wife, a few of his people and I took a walk on the beach prior to returning to the residence. Atorkor is primarily a fishing village and this is still done pretty much the same way as they have done it for hundreds of years. As we passed the lagoon to take the path to the beach, we passed the remains of an old boat that was carved out of one tree – it was huge!
Mrs. Adjorlolo stands next to the old fishing boat to give the viewer some perspective on it's size.
When we returned home, I could smell dinner and it was good. Up until now, they had been taking it "very easy" on the seasoning as per the chief's instructions. The food was good but I was starting to think that the Ghanaian diet was a little bland. Today I let it be known that I wanted to taste the "real cooking of Ghana." Tonight we had fufu and stew - wonderful but still could go a little more on the pepper. I don't think they believe me when I say I can handle it. But, I really have no complaints. I am being treated very well and could not ask for better hosts. Ghanaian hospitality is wonderful.
